Thursday, January 8, 2009

Hoi An, Vietnam

Declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, Hoi An is a preserved relic that oozes enchantment. The small village was one of the few towns left unscathed from the ravages of the Vietnam War. It's roots stem back to the 17th century, when it was a pivotal international trading port along the Silk Road for Europeans and Asians. Part of the settlement is automobile restricted; therefore, everyone strolls, bikes or motos through the quiet dusty lanes. I was enamored with the mustard yellow colonial houses whose peeling plaster walls were painted with emerald moss, leaving behind a beautiful pastel masterpiece of age in its wake. Antique doors and shutters popped with vivid color on the picturesque homes and storefronts, giving it almost a Caribbean air.

Built aside the slender Tu Bon River, waterfront cafes abound and fishing boats row tourists to and fro. The central market, also found on the shores of the waterway, buzzed with locals buying daily groceries as tourists absorbed the sights and smells of the bustling commerce. The riverside cafés were the ideal place to relax and enjoy sunny afternoon. Throughout the day I found myself popping back to the waterfront to enjoy its eclectic cuisine and watch the harbor activity. My favorite dining experience was at the Mango Room, a brightly colored restaurant with cool river breezes and an open kitchen serving Vietnamese fusion with a tropical twist. Their vegetable tempura appetizer was to die for.

Hoi An is not just an ancient beauty mark, it's also tailoring capital of the world. Tourists travel in droves to visit the villages 2,000 expert tailors. Almost every other storefront is a clothing shop displaying fashionable ensembles that can be reproduced to a client's exact measurements in less than 24-hours. Also, they can custom-make dresses, coats, suits, shoes, and jeans if someone comes with an exact design in mind. It's every woman's shopping fantasy, including mine. Like a kid in a candy store, I bounced from tailor to tailor, getting poked, prodded and measured for new additions to my wardrobe. I knew my dreams had come true when I walked into a shoe shop and was handed a current issue of Vogue magazine to pick out a style, then given rings with innumerable materials and colors to choose from. Talk about made to order!

After sunset, the streets of Hoi An illuminate with the soft glow of colored lanterns, adding to the magical atmosphere. Candlelit restaurants offer everything from Italian to French to Asian cuisine. In the late evening the village permeates an air of romance that lingers in the salty air, and visitors stroll under a black sky sprinkled with glittering diamonds.

Quick tips:
-Stay in the center of the town rather than the beach
-Come with fashion tear sheets of clothing or accessories you want to have made, it will take 1-2 days for tailors to complete
-Rent bikes to see the town, motos are a great way to travel to the beach
-Walk through the daily market
-Purchase handmade pottery or local art
-Take a day trip to My Son, a collection of temples and burial grounds of the Champa kingdom, an Indian dynasty that dominated the south and central parts of Vietnam through the 10th century